Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or [email protected].
Tom Colicchio, owner of Craftsteak, the new American steakhouse restaurant at MGM Grand, was watching the bar being stocked when I arrived for our meeting. It was a special time for Colicchio. Everything was finally in place for Tuesday's opening, and now he had the time to appreciate what he had created. The lounge and bar are beautiful.
We toured the restaurant, including the sizeable kitchen, while Colicchio shared his thoughts and described the reason behind every inch of Craftsteak, from the white-stuccoed walls to the wood tables.
Craftsteak is a a stunning restaurant, almost a clone to the Manhattan Craft, except larger, said Colicchio. There is magic in the design and decor orchestrated by the New York architectural firm Bentel & Bentel. The exotic natural-wood flooring, highlights of leather and bronze and the fine wood tables with butcher-block appeal reflect Colicchio's natural approach to food as well as to decor.
Craftsteak's design belies its size -- there is room for 260 diners. Booths are open, yet afford a sense of privacy. Party rooms can accommodate up to 60 people.
Colicchio strives for simplicity and quality.
"My restaurants are not about crystal chandeliers or fanciness," he said. "We're about the finest ingredients treated with respect and excellent service."
Colicchio's program for success includes, first and foremost, taking care of his employees by providing a good working environment so they feel secure and safe.
Colicchio is the chef/owner of Gramercy Tavern, Craft and Craftbar in NYC; all national award winners, not only for the food but for the owner's tender business approach.
"Guests should never be mistreated or intimidated," Colicchio said. "Whatever their concern it should be heard and resolved.
"Becoming part of the community is a must for all of my locations."
Colicchio is devoted to the artisan or craft movement. The menu is different than other steakhouses. Craftsteak celebrates the natural flavors of fine ingredients and aged steaks. Colicchio and Chef Chris Albrecht are already considering aging the steaks for longer periods. The times mentioned have never before been done. Imagine a tasting of steaks aging well beyond the usual limits.
Albrecht, a veteran Gramercy Tavern and Craft sous chef, is a tall and handsome young man who gave up a possible career in baseball to become a chef. He was a pitcher for USC before turning in his baseball glove for a toque.
I am intrigued by Craftsteak's menu. Along with the expected grilled steaks there is a choice of grain-fed or grass-fed New York strip steaks. There are many braised dishes, including veal breast, beef cheeks, duck leg confit and lobster. The lobster is gently braised in butter. Seafood, fish and poultry are among the many roasted dishes.
The first-course selections include roasted or smoked sweetbreads, quail, foie gras and lamb tenderloin. Vegetarians will find many side dishes and vegetables prepared roasted, braised, pureed or sauteed. And how about fava bean agnolotti or spaetzle or farro?
Potatoes are available pureed, gratineed, souffleed, roasted or fried. The combinations a diner can choose are endless.
And then there's dessert: roasted peaches or bananas, lemon-lime steamed pudding, a compote of berries or pluots (plum/apricot), toasted oat waffles with lavender honey butter or a cinnamon pull-apart brioche. I laughed when I saw hot milk cake among the desserts. How delicious that someone is still making these homespun American favorites. Peach and cream crumble, chocolate souffle and chocolate truffle cake, too. House-made sorbets and ice creams can be paired with desserts.
I lingered at Craftsteak much longer than expected. There is unexpected serenity at this place. Will it be there when the restaurant is busy? Colicchio says it will be. Without yet experiencing the food I'm already a believer.
Colicchio's reason for opening Craftsteak in Las Vegas?
"Las Vegas has become an important restaurant town," he said. "At a certain point you just have to become part of it. It was an opportunity I owed it to my partners. And Chris was already looking for an opportunity away from New York and was willing to move to Las Vegas."
Craftsteak is at the Studio Walk on the former site of The Brown Derby. Jason Lapin is the general manager; Melinda Eusantos is the pastry chef.
Dinner hours: 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. nightly. Reservations may be made through MGM's reservation line (891-3110) or by calling the restaurant (891-7318).
Short orders
Pie in the sky: Marie Callender's is offering Beach Feast and Park Feast packages just in time for July Fourth celebrations. Beach Feast includes crisp batter-fried chicken strips, two dipping sauces, Caesar salad, potato salad, cornbread and fresh fruit.
Park feast features hand-carved roasted turkey sandwiches instead of chicken. Both feasts ($24.99) are sized for four people. Add a pie for $5 or a fresh fruit pie for $7.
The offer is good at all Las Vegas Marie Callender's. Call your favorite location to place the order.
Flag-shaped pizzas at Sammy's: All three Las Vegas Valley Sammy's Woodfired Pizzas will offer July Fourth specials -- four different flag-shaped pizzas. Various pizza toppings will represent the stars and stripes.
And as a tribute to our tireless firemen, law enforcement officers, paramedics and civil employees, during July Fourth week all members will receive their flag-shaped pizzas for half price.
A nice gesture for a group of deserving people.
Two new eateries at Boulevard mall: Coco Moka Cafe and Nestle Cafe have joined the restaurants at the Boulevard mall.
Coco Moka Cafe features "upscale" soups, salads and sandwiches, "outrageous desserts," homemade fudge, chocolates, ice cream, fruit smoothies and Seattle's Best Coffees. Lunch and dinner menus. Look for the cafe outside of Macy's, just down from Dillard's.
Nestle Cafe, opening in July, will feature Nestle Toll House Cookies and other delectables.
Sizzling summer food specials at Fiesta: Both Fiesta and Rancho and Fiesta Henderson are featuring low-cost food deals. Breakfast at Baja Beach Cafe -- two eggs, two bacon strips, hash browns and toast for 99 cents. Service is from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. The Cafe's strawberry shortcake is available for the same price and so is a chilled Tecate or margarita.
Five Cafe food specials -- meat loaf, baked ziti or a hot turkey or beef sandwich are $5 each. A half-rack of barbecued baby back ribs is $4.99; a whole rack is $7.99.
Holiday safety warning: The Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition is alerting everyone to the danger of untreated juices (kids love juices). Only about 2 percent of all juices are not treated. These untreated products must carry a warning label that unpasteurized juices may contain harmful bacteria that can cause serious illness or even death in young children, the elderly and persons with weakened immune systems. According to Dr. Eileen Parish, food safety medical advisor for the FDA, children are most at risk.
For additional information about juice safety call 1-888-SAFEFOOD (723-3663). With our hot weather it's important to keep untreated juices cold. And make certain the "use before" date is followed.
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