Close race, but José Andrés’ avant-garde cuisine wins by a wabbit—in this case the Canary Island confit of baby Bugs you can’t find anywhere but Spain. Crazy conviviality, paella and a parade of plate after small plate are all pluses. At Cosmopolitan. Fri.-Sat., 5 p.m.-midnight, Sun.-Thur., 5 p.m.-11 p.m. 698-7950.
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